Upper Cave Crag
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Sinners Wall
These routes are located on a smaller crag to the left of the main crag, seen above from the approach path.
Six Fours les Plage 6b
unknown (1995)
Fear of the Dark 6b
unknown (1995)
Father Figure 6b
unknown (1995)
Cave Lefthand - what's this called?
Hang Out E2 5b **
Lady Charlotte E5 6a ***
Ratcatcher E3 5b **
In Loving Memory E5/6 6a *
Morbidezza E5/6 6b *
Warfarin E2 5c, 5b
Rat Race E3/4 6a **
Marlina Area
This section of the crag has been the centre of some controversy in the past over the placement of bolts on what is mainly a traditional crag. Attempts to place bolts on other areas of the crag are unacceptable! This small section of rock gives some excellent sport climbing on excellent schist.
Ultima Necat F7b+
M.McGowan (1987)
Starting up Marlina, climb more directly to its belay from the 4th bolt on this route past another bolt above. Slightly run-out but safe and as good as the other routes on the wall.
Marlina F7c ***
D.Cuthbertson (1986)
Starting up the lefthand line of bolts climb the wall past a difficult start. Follow pockets and edges up and rightwards to reach a diagonal crack. Follow the crack leftwards with increasing difficulty to a LO.
Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure F7b+
D.McCallum (1992)
On reaching the base of the diagonal crack on Marlina continue upwards on sloping holds up the arete. F7b+?
???? F8a
A slightly eliminate line which climbs directly between Marlina and Silk Purse. Slightly detracts from the original lines.
Silk Purse F7c+ ***
G.Livingston (1987)
Starting up the righthand line of bolts, climb the wall on small edges trending slightly leftwards to reach the crack on Marlina. Follow the crack for a few metres before climbing more directly up the wall above on sloping sidepulls.
Silk Teddies F7c **
Rab Anderson 1997?
Starting up the righthand line of bolts climb directly (no crack) to gain the arete above. The variation moving left into the crack is of far better quality.
Cave Righthand (what's this called?)
Squirm Direct E3 5c **
Corpse E1 5b **
High Performace E3/4 6a *
Marjorie Razor Blade E3 5c **
Tumbleweed E2 5b **
The crag is then split by a broken slab. To its right is a steep bulge with the following routes.
Laughing Gnome E3 5c
???
