Tunnel Wall

From SCWiki

The Tunnel Wall is the prominent steep rock wall that lies at the heart of Creag a' Bancair on the NW slopes of the Buchaille, Glen Coe

During its development in the 1980's the placement of fixed bolt protection on this wall was highly controversial. For this reason the original routes used a mixture of natural gear and hand placed bolts. These routes had little popularity until extensive re-equiping took place in the late ninety's. Many still believe such activity to be out of place with the area. Albeit the crag shows a good example where hard traditional and sport climbs can co-exist, catering for both the physical and mental aspects of climbing.

In the topo below a few of the traditional climbs bounding the wall have been marked, namely 'Carnivore' E2 5c, 'Symbiosis' E8 6b and 'The Risk Business' E5 6a.

Information on local amentities can be found on the main Glen Coe page.

Directions & Approach

Parking at Lagangarbh, follow the Buchaille track until level with the base of the cliff. There is a poor trail westwards begining by some exposed boulders on the right of the path, (easier to find on the way back). Follow this across a river bed and grassy slopes to the base of the crag.

Time: 30 minutes. (OS 41 Grid Ref ??)

Routes

Routes described from left to right.

(1 )The Third Eye 22m F7c **
D. Macleod - 2004
A new sport route near the left end of Tunnel Wall itself, climbing the pale wall and bulge above. Start just right of a small cave. Difficult climbing leads to a boss (rest). A thin and sustained section follows on the pale wall to reach a line of good holds below the bulge. Pull through this on good holds to a good rest. The final black wall is breached using small crimps, leading to a belay at the big horizontal. Superb technical climbing.

(2) Axiom 30m F8a ***
D. Macleod - 2004
A brilliant route taking a parallel line to Admission, another classic addition to the Tunnel line up. Start up The Third Eye to the second bolt. Break off rightwards with increasing difficulty to a hard section on sidepulls to gain good edges in a faint niche (technical crux). More sustained climbing leads through the bulge to a decent rest. Move up, then rightwards to another difficult section. The finishing section is slightly easier. Classic.

(3) Admission 30m F7c/+ *
P. Laughlan - ????
Excellent climbing with some difficult moves. Start below a blank shield and climb directly towards an open groove. Continue with sustained climbing directly up the wall righ of axiom.

(4) Fated Mission 30m F7c+ **
D. Birkett - 2002
Link The first 3 bolts of Fated Path via two new bolts into Admission.

(5) Fated Path 30m F7c+ ***
G. Livingston - ????
A fantastic route, one of the best of its grade in the country, climbing up the centre of the Tunnel Wall. Start in the centre of the wall and follow a line of edges trending rightwards eventually leading to reasonable holds. Make thin moves to the break, and continue directly to the vague groove with tricky and pumpy moves near the top. Sustained and brilliant. Follows a line of brown bolt hangers.

(6) The Tribeswoman 30m F7c+ **
P. Laughlan - ????
Climbs the blank wall between Uncertain and Fated Path to join the Railway Children at its crux. Sustained with difficult moves.

Railway Children 30m F7c **
M. MacGowan? - ????
From the niche of 'Uncertain Emotions' traverse leftwards along the break. Hard moves up and left lead to easier ground. Excellent climbing and a giveaway at 7c....

(7) Uncertain Emotions 25m F7b **
D. Cuthbertson - ????
The right most sport route on the wall. Climb the shallow grove on good holds to a buldge. Move over the bulge on small holds (crux) moving slightly right to better holds. Moving back left another hard move gains the groove and a good resting position under the buldge. Pass the buldge on its left and make a long reach right to gain good holds in a steep position. One final long reach gains a good hold directly below the LO. Excellent varied climbing and no push over for the grade.

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