Craigmore

From SCWiki

New Routes

Merlin 4m 6B ***
John Watson - May 2006
For those who actually like bouldering at Craigmore, this is probably the most elegant problem here... the wall just left of The Beast, finishing at jump-off jugs on that problem. It's a magical sequence and not hard when worked out... otherwise it seems impossible. Similar tricks to 'Meilleur des Mondes' at Bois Rond, Font.

Latch Key Kid 4m 6C *
John Watson - July 2005
The wall right of Tae a Moose.. direct from RH underput pinch and high left crimp, boom up to jugs...no left wall! Prob. done before, I think Andy G. mentioned it, but it's a superb one move dyno worth doing on the circuit / needs precise kinetics to latch the juggy break. Not hard, just tricky to get the upwards bit just right...

Terminal Arete 6m 6A+ *
John Watson
The double arete on the back of the boulder holding Jamie's Overhang. Difficult smearing and technical positioning up the slab using both aretes.

Swingtime 5m 5+ *
Tim Morrozzo, John Watson
The lip of the Cave boulder hidden below Terror. Climb out of the cave from a SS at jammed blocks, throw in a heel jam and reach round to hold on the lip, cut loose and traverse down and left to rock over the lip. Superb fun.

Beast Lip 4m 6A+ *
Colin Lampton, John Watson
Just right of the Beast start under Jolly Green Dragon, gain the tiny finger slopers in the break and crank all the way up to the big sloper, step right to finish. Nice wee eliminate to add to the circuit here.

Blade Face 6m 5
John Watson
The cleaned face of The Blade provides good climbing to a nervy reach up left to straddle the blade and finish up the arete.

Phosphorous Fur 3m 7A **
John Watson - April 2005
Minimalist brutality... the direct solution to the Cave boulder overhang. Crouch start, RH undercut, LH high slot, puzzle out your body position, then slap right up edges to snatch the lip hold. Finish as for Swingtime or direct at the same grade.

You are here: Scotland > Lowland Outcrops > Glasgow Outcrops > Craigmore