Auchinstarry Quarry
From SCWiki
Auchinstarry Quarry is a central belt Dolerite quarry near Croy, that has been landscaped to provide a pleasant enough venue. Has the benefit of being close to a main line train-station, making it easy to reach for those in Glasgow or Edinburgh without a car. For those with a car, parking is very close - one of those belay from the car venues.
Directions & Approach
This crag is easily accessible by public transport. Get the Edinburgh/Glasgow Queen Street train and alight at Croy. From here it is about 15min walk.
Car Park Area:
The area you can belay from your car in. Descent is by following the path round to the left (as you face crag).
1.First Footer E1 5c **
2.Access Route Diff ***
3.Scream S 4b
4.Anarchist VDiff
5.Tar Severe
6.Knock Back E1 5b **
7.Slinky Lizard HS 4b *
Route can be a little sandy at times
8.Cats Whiskers E2 5b
9.Death Is The Hunter E4 6b ***
10.Nijinski E5 6a ***
Promontory
Area just to the right of the carpark area
- Blade Runner E4 6a **
- Promontory Direct HVs 5a ***
- Spirogyra VS 5a
Main Amphitheatre:
- Cracked Arete VS 4c **
- Caftan HVS 4c
- Bazaar HVS 4c
- Mastaglia VS 4c *
- Higher Beginning VDiff
- Stir Crazy HVS 5a
- Lion Cub VS 4b *
- Lion HVS 5b **
Mascarade Buttress
1.Roll Up VS 4c
2.Soft Machine E2 5c
3.Maypole HVS 4c
4.High Dive E3 5c *
5.Surface Tension E5 6b ***
6.Mascarade E1 5c
7.Whiplash E1 5b
8.Red Lead VS 5a ***
There is a video of someone soloing this climb here: [1].
9.White Slab HS 4b
10.Demons and Dead Lizards HVS 5a
Trundle Slab
- Replicant E3 5c
- Trundle VS 4c ***
- Walk On The Wild Side HVS 5a ***
- Midas Touch E1 5b ***
- The Gold Bug E3 5c
- Gold Rush E1 5b ***
- After The Gold Rush E2 5a
- After The Grave Dig E1 5a **
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